For the past couple of years I’ve been keeping a list of places to visit in Lisbon based on recommendations I find on the internet or traveller’s tales. Museums, theatres, miradouros, restuarants, bars and cafe’s; all are noted should I find a good review. I’d noticed not one but several glowing reviews of Kaffeehaus so made it a priority visit.

Situated on the road beside the Chiado Museum ( Rua Anchieta 3) right near São Carlos theatre, Kaffeehaus is in the centre of Lisbon’s classiest area. Whilst it lacks outside space to sit, inside the atmosphere is friendly, airy and laid back. Set up by two people from Austria, Kaffeehaus is a Viennese treat in the heart of Portugal.

My first visit was early afternoon on a Wednesday. Whilst I’d already planned to hunt out the cafe, I actually stumbled upon it whilst taking a wander round Chiado’s side streets. I entered gratefully as it was quite hot outside and I was feeling hungry.

Inside, the room has a minimalist feel to it. The chairs are beige, tables black and the walls spartan aside from one which is covered in Vienese posters. The colours chosen however make the place feel airy and comfortable rather than austere. I could quite happily sit here for hours and imagine that when they aren’t too busy, people probably do.

The waitress, who I assume is also from Vienna, is really friendly. Two German men come in and she chats happily to them. She has that natural air of someone who genuinely likes to be around people and is conscious of making everyone feel welcome. The place is empty apart from us but it’s early afternoon in the middle of the week. Jazz music plays softly in the background.

I order a greek salad and a coffee which comes in at around 9 euro’s. The menu is simple but looks great. There are a variety of toasties and salads and specials are written on the chalkboard behind the bar. I notice apple strudel is also on the menu. Mmmm! Whilst waiting for my food I peruse the range of multilingual-newspapers and magazines. I go to take one and find myself fumbling to remove it from the wooden hanger it’s placed in. Feeling a bit silly I put it back but later notice that when someone else comes in they simply help themselves to the paper hanger and all and take it to their table. I note that for future reference.

My food and coffee arrives and looks fantastic. I text my best friend back in England:
“I feel so cosmopolitan. I’m in a Viennese cafe in the heart of Lisbon eating Greek salad!”

I can honestly say that it’s one of the best Greek Salads I’ve ever had. The salad leaves were fresh and crispy, the cheese fresh and smooth, the dressing light and in just the right quantity, plump olives and toasted bread on the side. The coffee here is good too. They serve it on a little tray with a small glass of water. I’m not sure why and I haven’t seen that done before but I’m grateful for water to drink on a hot day. After finishing my meal I have no sense at all that they want me to rush away so I sit writing my thoughts and taking photos and watch the world pass by outside.

Two days later I decide to check out the apple strudel so found myself back in Kaffeehaus. The waitress recognises me from my previous visit. She’s taking her break and chat’s a little. She knows some English and some Portuguese so between the two languages we talk a while. I mention I had seen a video of Kaffeehaus (see below) on the internet and she tells the owner who is featured in the video. He’s surprised and pleased that they already have glowing reviews on the net and I tell them they are about to get another

Owner Christoph tells me that on Sundays you’ll find it extremely hard to get a seat. They run a brunch menu at the weekend and apparently people queue outside the door! Also it’s worth noting that Kaffeehaus has a wonderful range of beers, wines and spirits and at the weekends they become a sleek bar open until 2am. Weekdays see them open until midnight.

Despite my initial quest for Apple Strudel, the range of delectable looking cakes at the counter catch my eye. I plump (no pun intended!) for the strawberry cheesecake. Turns out the cheesecake is delicately flavoured with lemon and is creamy and rich. The biscuit is crunchy and not too sweet and the strawberries at the peak of ripeness and flavour. I savour every mouthful and promise myself a lot of salad when I get back to England!

Whilst my love is for Lisbon and Portuguese culture, I have to say I adored this Viennese offering. My overall impression was that if I lived in Lisbon this would definately be one of my regular haunts. The food is excellent but the lasting impression is the friendliness of the staff.

a

Kaffeehaus Cafe

Related posts:

1. Numbers in Portuguese Here is a new video for you all - Numbers...
2. Mariza - Cavaleiro Monge Some time ago I wrote a post on my visit...
3. Map of Lisbon I thought it would be helpful for you to...

Related posts brought to you by Yet Another Related Posts Plugin.

Whenever I visit Lisbon evenings tend to find me at Miradouro das Portas do Sol, quietly drinking a beer or a coffee and writing up my experiences of the day whilst taking in the glorious view. It’s very easy to reach, take the number 28 tram. It’s the stop after the castle.

‘Portas das Sol’ literally means ‘doorways of the sun’ and refers to sunset. It is a wonderful place to come in the early evening and watch how the setting sun changes the colours of the water and the rooftops. I think each time I have had the same feeling of ‘now I am really here’ once I take my place beside the Tejo and feel the warm river winds caress my skin.

The light here is extraordinary. The terrace is dotted with palm trees and is spacious and wide. Sitting on the seats of the cafe that probably boasts the best view in Lisbon you gaze across Alfama to the boats on the water and beyond. From here you can see the magnificent structure of São Vicente de Fora Church. I love watching people’s faces as they reach the summit of the hill from the castle and realise what they have stumbled upon. Despite the many tourists that arrive here, few seem to spend time really taking in the atmosphere: a quick snap and they are gone as they spy the steps leading deep into Alfama.

There is a statue of St. Vincent who guards over the terrace and Lisbon. He is the Patron Saint of Lisbon and in his hands he holds a boat with two ravens. Perhaps it’s why I like this place and feel protected here; I’ve always had thing about ravens. They are healing birds and powerful medicine.

Just beside the cafe is a long veranda that juts out to offer a perfect place to stand and catch your breath. As usual on my last visit, the first evening found me here. I felt curiously emotional. A lone busker played intricate guitar as I stood by the rails looking out over the water. I was blessed with a few minutes where it was just me, him and the river and I let the feeling of saudade roll over me. It is moments like these, in the most romantic of places, when it is hard to stand alone. Without a lover’s hand to grasp, I sent my heart out over the water and hoped for just a moment he knew I was thinking of him.

a

Miradouro das Portas do Sol

Related posts:

1. Video’s from Portugal - The Santa Justa Elevador I have found a couple of video's posted on Youtube...
2. Map of Lisbon I thought it would be helpful for you to...
3. Padrao dos Descobrimentos - View from the Top Here's a video I found on You Tube showing the...

Related posts brought to you by Yet Another Related Posts Plugin.

I’ve just got back from my latest trip to Lisbon so have plenty to talk about for the next few months. My visit seemed like a whirlwind of places to see, experience, photograph and write about. I had a huge list of ‘things to do’ and whilst I only had 4 days I did manage to cram in a huge amount.

It was raining when I arrive. Raining in Lisbon? Yes rain: torrential rain in fact and my face fell as the plane landed. The last two summers in England have been horrendous and much as I adore Lisbon I was seriously needing some sunshine! The baggage took an age to arrive (this happened when I arrived back in England for some reason too) so the taxi queue was long and looked like it could be a wet wait. I opted instead to grab the bus and make my own way to the hotel.

The bus was hot and stuffy but as we weaved our way towards Rossio I could feel the heat and realised this wasn’t the sulking drizzle of England but a proper summer storm that clears the air ready for the sunshine again. Despite the rain I began to feel excited and happy to see the familiar streets. It’s like meeting a lover in the rain; you worry about your hair or what you are wearing but once you look in their eyes everything else is forgotten.

I stayed at the same hotel as last time (Residencial Princesa). Whilst I know that staying elsewhere would have given me something else to write about here I decided to stick with somewhere I felt happy with. This time I was given a bigger room with a little balcony that looked out onto the main street. I loved the room and my stay at there was once again a good experience. As a budget hotel of course there are other places with a lot more bells and whistles but this hotel suits my budget and provides exactly what a need. Most importantly the staff are very friendly.

It had been a whole year since my last visit and in that time I took and passed a GCSE in Portuguese. I achieved an A grade which put me on a high for about 3 weeks, I was so delighted. I did work hard but I never expected such a good result.

Of course this doesn’t mean I speak Portuguese. I am nowhere near fluent but my ear is far more finely tuned and my pronounciation very good. The latter can also be a challenge when someone replies quickly thinking I’m Portuguese! This happened a few times before a woman at Ask Me Lisboa said she thought I was Portuguese from how I spoke (I should say here I had only asked a quick question!). Speaking more conversationally I am still slow and have to think about my verb conjugations which will no doubt immediately mark me out as not being a native speaker!

Of course I was seriously flattered and when learning a language this is part of the holy grail but it needs to be seriously matched with the ability to comprehend what is being said! However with all my studying and listening to Portuguese Radio and Lingq my listening skills have dramatically improved. Whereas last year replies could seem just a jumble of sound, this year I could hear the words and after a bit of a delay (or repetition) I understood. So the words are there, it’s just a matter of increasing my vocabulary now and reading widely to improve my recall of words and phrases.

It’s funny but despite my deep need to spend time in beautiful Lisbon I often find myself quite anxious, especially before leaving home and usually for the first day or so whilst I’m there. Perhaps it is being away from everyone I know, being completely alone and away from things that take me away from that aloneness (like the internet). I pondered this one evening whilst sat on my little balcony staring out at the city as crickets sung to the moon. Naturally I am quite comfortable in my own company which suits me as I spend a great deal of time writing and studying. However something about travelling heightens my sense of vulnerability and forces my soul to reveal to me those places that are normally hidden by everyday life. This is perhaps why we travel to find ourselves. It is a journey inward and outward.

Whilst in Lisbon I met Cynthia from Journey Juju. Although Cynthia has now moved on from her stay in Lisbon I strongly encourage you to take a look at her blog as she has written some wonderful posts on the time she spent living there. At the end of our meeting she gave me a little Journey Juju talisman as a parting gift. On it it said ‘Your journey takes you beyond your expectations’.

I try not to have expectations. I do have goals and plans such as ‘photograph Elevador da Gloria’ or ‘write down the direction to the Sé for In Love With Lisbon’ but expectations are kept strongly at bay. Perhaps some of that is anxiety but some of it is also that I want Lisbon to unveil herself to me rather than me drag the veil from her face. However I feel that if I had expectations Lisbon would exceed them everytime

Each time I return to Lisbon it is though I discover another layer both to it and to myself. At the beginning of my journey I feel very foreign, by the end Lisbon feels like home. Of course these are all the hallmarks of a long distance love affair, the wondering if things will feel the same when you meet, the initial shyness. But then suddenly your heart is opened again and everything feels right.

a

Returning from Lisbon

Related posts:

1. Map of Lisbon I thought it would be helpful for you to...
2. Moon Over Lisbon - A Song for You Some of you may know that I also write...
3. Lisbon Castle The moment I see the walls of Lisbon castle...

Related posts brought to you by Yet Another Related Posts Plugin.

Below are the sound files for the numbers. Just right click and hit save to download.

Thanks goes to the photographers who took the photo’s used in the video. Do take a look at their photo streams on Flickr! Thanks also to Kevin MacLeod for the music entitled “Sovereign”. He has lots of music available at his website.

Um
Photo by Moe_

Dois
Photo by  Lucky Poet

Três
Photo by duncan

Quatro
Photo by duncan

Cinco
Photo by Leo Reynolds

Seis
Photo by CarbonNYC

Sete
Photo by Leo Reynolds

Oito
Photo by lukeroberts

Nove
Photo by holeymoon

Dez
Photo by holeymoon

Onze
Photo by imago

Doze
Photo by rightee

Treze
Photo by SideLong

Catorze
Photo by Moe_

Quinze
Photo by nataliej

Dezasseis
Photo by onepointzero

Dezassete
Photo by visualpanic

Dezoito
Photo by TheTruthAboutMortgage.c om

Dezanove
Photo by jade-rabbit

Vinte
Photo by phatcontroller

Butterfly photo by aussiegall

Two butterflies photo by Dani

Cat photo by tanakawho

Two cats photo by ( Krikit )

a

Numbers in Portuguese

Related posts:

1. Colours in Portuguese I'm sure by now you will have realised I...
2. The Portuguese Flag Yesterday I decided to have a clear-out and in...
3. The Stone Beneath My Feet ...

Related posts brought to you by Yet Another Related Posts Plugin.

I just read a fascinating article on a new project which is running in Lisbon and possibly set to explode around the glode. Cabrecega is a creative agency in Lisbon who develops innovative experiences for a variety of clients. The latest of these is a guided walk through Alfama lead by a blind guide. Walkers are securely blindfolded then lead through the ancient streets. The guide not only talks them through the history of the area but also gives them a sensory experience of it. The walker is given an experience of Lisbon and of blindness simultaneously. 

I think this is an amazing project. As a sighted person I cannot imagine what it is like to live in a world without sight. Yet one of the aims of this walk is to show us that in the absence of sight, the world can be fully experienced in a new way. My memories of Lisbon include sound, scent, touch and taste as well as vision - the smell of sardines, the sound of fado and the trams, running my fingers along the azulejos, the taste of pasteis (Mmmmm…).  To walk through Alfama blindfold would be an extraordinary experience.

The project lists one of their goals as

“…to bring awareness to the universe of the visually impaired, not as a limitation but instead in a positive and stimulating note in which the blind himself invite us to step into his own world of codes and references.”

The first walks in July were fully booked but they are opening their doors again in September. They cost 20 euros and this is given in full to ACAPO - an association for the visually impaired.

For further details about this amazing, inspiring project, contact the organisers through their website.

a

Sensorial Walks in Lisbon

Related posts:

1. Walks on the Arts Side Today I was sent some information by 'Walks on...
2. Discover Lisbon with Lisbon Walker I stumbled across the Lisbon Walker website by chance...
3. Love in Lisbon I just had to post this wonderful picture I came...

Related posts brought to you by Yet Another Related Posts Plugin.

The Gulbenkian Museum (Museu Calouste Gulbenkian) is situated just north east of Parque Eduardo VII. The easiest way to get their is to jump on the metro blue line at Baixa-Chiado up to São Sebastiao. Once you exit, walk up the main road (Avenida AntOnio Augusta de Aguiar). The Gulbenkian gardens run on your right hand side but you need to walk down almost to the first corner to find an entry point.

The Gulbenkian comprises a modern art gallery and a seperate main building which is the museum. They are set within beautiful landscaped grounds which I also recommend exploring.

My first point of call was the Modern Art gallery. I’m the kind of person who likes to visit museums and galleries but at the same time I don’t tend to hover around exhibitions I don’t feel drawn to. I’ll just keep on walking until I find something that really captures my attention. At times, as my friends will no doubt attest to, it’s meant I’ve walked right in and right out again!

Luckily at the time, the exhibitions in the art gallery were fascinating and I was entraced by one particular installation by an Romanian artist Mircea Cantor. The installation is called Deeaparture (that is the spelling) and can be viewed on You Tube here. There were also some huge arresting photo’s by Pieter Hugo on his exploration of the The Hyena Men of Abuja. I found them both beautiful and disturbing and the images have stayed with me long after my visit.

After viewing the exhibits in the art gallery, I made my way across to the main Gulbenkian building. Normally it would cost 7 Euro’s for entry into both but as I went on a Sunday both were free. Despite there being lots of people, the museum was extraordinarily quiet. The building itself is modern and spacious and contains a wealth of treasured items to be seen. The collection was created by one of the richest men of the 20th Century named Calouste Gulbenkian who donated his entire collection to Portugal when he died. Gulbenkian seemed to have an eye for many different era’s and cultures so the collection comprises items from Egypt, the Far East, Mesopotamia, Greece, Rome and more. Paintings range from pre-Raphaelite to impressionist and includes artists such as Turner, Monet, Burne-Jones, Rembrandt and Rubens. I think my favourite pieces were those in the Egyptian and Islamic collections and the Diana statue by Jean-Antoine Houdon which apparently caused a stir when he completed it due to her being nude. I guess they were more easily shocked way back when

Back outside in the sunshine, I took a long walk through the delightful gardens that surround the museum and spent some time quietly sitting in the amphitheatre there. Throughout the park are sculptures including work by Henry Moore. There’s a small man-made lake complete with ducks and shady copses where you can watch the dapple of the sun play. Birds, bees and butterflies are all around. It’s a lovely place to spend an hour and recharge your batteries.

For more information about the musem and it’s collection visit the official website.

Price: 7 euro’s for a combined museum and gallery ticket. Sundays are free.

Address
Av. de Berna 45A
1067-001 Lisboa Codex

Opening Hours
Tuesday to Sunday: 10 a.m. to 5.45 p.m.
Closed on Mondays, and on January 1, Easter Sunday, May 1, December 25

Links to artists mentioned in this post:

Pieter Hugo - Official Website
An article by The Guardian on Pieter Hugo

Deeparture by Mircea Cantor

a

The Gulbenkian Museum

Related posts:

1. The Fado Museum The Fado Museum (Museu do Fado) is a must...
2. The Tile Museum - Museu do Azulejo I have an endless fascination with the mosaic tile...
3. Numbers in Portuguese Here is a new video for you all - Numbers...

Related posts brought to you by Yet Another Related Posts Plugin.

Here’s the link Sounds and Sights of Portugal

a

Lonely Planet Portugal Podcast

Related posts:

1. Portugal Invents Cork Stamp I just found this fascinating little post about cork stamps....
2. Portugal in the News - Week Ending 22nd July Portuguese born writer José Saramago has sparked massive controversy after...
3. Portugal in the News - Week Ending 28th July ‘07 Portugal is a Popular Place to Retire to Read Full...

Related posts brought to you by Yet Another Related Posts Plugin.

You know what? I’d love to hear you speaking difficult words such as “Inconstitucionalissimamente” (yes it’s a word).

So then - here goes…
Here is my attempt at the above word. Wish me luck and tell me how I did. I had to guess at the pronunciation

Inconstitucionalissimamente
challenge
 

a

In Response to Georgia’s Challenge

Related posts:

1. Portuguese Love Phrases One thing I really enjoy about running In Love...
2. Colours in Portuguese - The Music Olá all. Some people have expressed an interest in the...
3. Learning a language - Improving Listening Comprehension If you are learning Portuguese there are a number...

Related posts brought to you by Yet Another Related Posts Plugin.

a

Lisbon Laughs

Related posts:

1. Lily is off to Lisbon Hello lovely readers. I am off to Lisbon tomorrow morning. I...
2. Moon Over Lisbon - A Song for You Some of you may know that I also write...
3. Lisbon Castle - A Video I found this lovely little video on Youtube and thought...

Related posts brought to you by Yet Another Related Posts Plugin.

Yesterday I decided to have a clear-out and in the process I found a tiny Portuguese flag pin that a friend gave me a few years ago. As someone who has worked a lot with symbolism I became fascinated with the design on the flag and curious to find out what it meant.

Firstly the main colours of the flag are red and green. The green takes up two fifths of the flag and the green, three fifths. An armillary sphere is placed over where the two colours meet and over that lies the shield of Portugal.

The flag itself has been in use since 1910 when the monarchy of Portugal were overthrown. However, it was not until 1911 that the flag as it flies today was agreed officially and there was much argument around it’s design in that intervening year.

Previously, the colours of the flag were mostly blue and white which celebrated the royal family. It was natural therefore that these colours were changed to those of the republican party. Red to represent the blood of the Portuguese (and those who had died defending their country) and green to represent hope and optimism in a new era of republicanism.

photo credit: *madalena-pestana*

The armillary sphere represents Portugal’s great history of maritime discoveries. The sphere was used to navigate the oceans and was incorporated in the personal banner of King Manuel 1st who reigned during those magnificent times. The architecture of the era often included the armillary sphere as well so you can see it on Belém Tower and in the Monastery of Jerónimos.

Lastly on the flag is the shield of Portugal which sits on top of the armillary sphere. The shield has been present on almost every flag of Portugal (if in slightly differing designs). In the centre of the shield are five small blue shields with five dots in each. The dots are called ‘bezants’. A bezant is an old coin which comes from the word “Byzantian” as these gold coins were the most prized.

It is believed that these five bezants represent the five Moorish Kings that were overthrown by Afonso 1st. Afonso was given a vision that told he would conquer the opposing kings even though their armies outnumbered his. Whether or not this is historically true remains in question but it is said that he included the five bezants to remember this divine victory and honour the five wounds of Christ. The thirty byzants in total are meant to recall the thirty pieces of silver that Judas received for selling out his friend Jesus.

Seven castles on a red background surround the central blue shields and these are supposed to represent Afonso 3rd’s victory over seven Moorish kings.

Much of the truth behind these symbols is lost to history and arguments continue today over what they really represent. Like any good symbol, the images used evoke certain meanings and emotions and it is they that are the most important. Here is a land full of passion, hope and loyalty, a land with a history of discovery, a willingness to take a risk and overcome the odds. The colours are strong and proud like the land it flies above.

For a more comprehensive history see here

a

The Portuguese Flag

Related posts:

1. Numbers in Portuguese Here is a new video for you all - Numbers...
2. Photographing Lisbon on Flickr photo credit: neftos In Love With Lisbon's Flickr Group...
3. Colours in Portuguese - The Music Olá all. Some people have expressed an interest in the...

Related posts brought to you by Yet Another Related Posts Plugin.