Yesterday I decided to have a clear-out and in the process I found a tiny Portuguese flag pin that a friend gave me a few years ago. As someone who has worked a lot with symbolism I became fascinated with the design on the flag and curious to find out what it meant.

Firstly the main colours of the flag are red and green. The green takes up two fifths of the flag and the green, three fifths. An armillary sphere is placed over where the two colours meet and over that lies the shield of Portugal.

The flag itself has been in use since 1910 when the monarchy of Portugal were overthrown. However, it was not until 1911 that the flag as it flies today was agreed officially and there was much argument around it’s design in that intervening year.

Previously, the colours of the flag were mostly blue and white which celebrated the royal family. It was natural therefore that these colours were changed to those of the republican party. Red to represent the blood of the Portuguese (and those who had died defending their country) and green to represent hope and optimism in a new era of republicanism.

photo credit: *madalena-pestana*

The armillary sphere represents Portugal’s great history of maritime discoveries. The sphere was used to navigate the oceans and was incorporated in the personal banner of King Manuel 1st who reigned during those magnificent times. The architecture of the era often included the armillary sphere as well so you can see it on Belém Tower and in the Monastery of Jerónimos.

Lastly on the flag is the shield of Portugal which sits on top of the armillary sphere. The shield has been present on almost every flag of Portugal (if in slightly differing designs). In the centre of the shield are five small blue shields with five dots in each. The dots are called ‘bezants’. A bezant is an old coin which comes from the word “Byzantian” as these gold coins were the most prized.

It is believed that these five bezants represent the five Moorish Kings that were overthrown by Afonso 1st. Afonso was given a vision that told he would conquer the opposing kings even though their armies outnumbered his. Whether or not this is historically true remains in question but it is said that he included the five bezants to remember this divine victory and honour the five wounds of Christ. The thirty byzants in total are meant to recall the thirty pieces of silver that Judas received for selling out his friend Jesus.

Seven castles on a red background surround the central blue shields and these are supposed to represent Afonso 3rd’s victory over seven Moorish kings.

Much of the truth behind these symbols is lost to history and arguments continue today over what they really represent. Like any good symbol, the images used evoke certain meanings and emotions and it is they that are the most important. Here is a land full of passion, hope and loyalty, a land with a history of discovery, a willingness to take a risk and overcome the odds. The colours are strong and proud like the land it flies above.

For a more comprehensive history see here

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June 10th is National Portugal Day and it is a day for people of Portuguese descent to celebrate across the world. In Portugal it is known as Dia de Camões (Day of Camões) because it is dedicated to the famous Portuguese poet Luís de Camões who died on the 10th June 1580.

Luís de Camões was the author of one of the most important works in Portuguese literature “Os Lusíadas”. This collection of poems celebrates Portugal’s epic history and the voyages of discovery which brought the land and it’s people fame and fortune.

Portugal Day is a day to remember your roots, get together and party. Listen to Portuguese music, drink a glass of port, visit a Portuguese restaurant or read The Lusiads. Let’s celebrate this wonderful country!

Happy Portugal Day to everyone tomorrow.

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Today I was sent some information by ‘Walks on the Arts Side’; a company in Lisbon who offer themed guided walks in Lisbon focused around the beautiful Azulejos (tiles) that are an iconic feature of Portuguese buildings. I haven’t been on one of these walks yet myself so I cannot offer a personal review of them. However, after taking a look at their website, I thought many of you would be interested.

Below is the information sheet they sent me and there is also a link to download the flyer. I adore azulejos so I could imagine really enjoying one their walks and I do hope to join in on one of my next visits. If any of you have been on a Walk on the Arts Side, please feel free to let others know what you think in the comments below.

Information
For 5 centuries the Azulejos (ceramic tiles) have mirrored Portugal´s multicultural dialogue and the evolution of its own society – from the Islamic wisdom through the Renaissance spirit and the Portuguese discoveries to the “great production” of the XVIII century and the eclectic XIX and XX centuries.

We do guided tours of Lisbon’s (and Portugal’s) most extraordinary examples of a unique heritage  – the ‘Azulejos’ -  and comment on their art and history, styles, techniques and major influences from the 16th to 20th century.
The walks take place in central Lisbon and in the Belém district (in partnership with one of Europe’s oldest tile factories) lasting approx. 3hours.

Regular tours (central Lisbon):
The Chiado-Bairro Alto Tour
From the Ribeira to the Janelas Verdes
Taste of the Art: From the Pastéis de Belém to the Fábrica Sant’Anna

Other tailor-made THEMED TOURS include:
• Hispano-Moorish, Dutch Imports, The Baroque Grandeur
• The 17th’s century “Freedom of Expression”
• GUIDED TOURS of the Museu Nacional do Azulejo (NATIONAL TILE MUSEUM)
• Tile Painting Workshops
• The 17th century Convents
• The Rococo Gardens

Click here to download the flyer
Full details including times, prices, walks available and guides are all on their website

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I have an endless fascination with the mosaic tile found at every turn in Lisbon and throughout Portugal. The beautiful intricate patterns adorning the streets and buildings are a precious commodity and a defining feature. From ordinary town houses to palaces and monuments, Portuguese tile is found everywhere.

The word Azulejo stems from the Moorish occupation during the 8th century. Azulejo is derived from the Arabic “al -zulecha” meaning “small Stone”. Traditionally the Koran bans images of living things so the patterns originally were made up of complex geometric designs. Over the centuries, as Moorish influence declined, this patterns changed and you could find not only geometric designs but also scenes of flora and fauna as well as human. Religious imagery was favoured initially, closely followed by images afforded by the upper classes such as hunting and feasting. The voyages of Vasco de Gama also became popular. History and fantasy became glorious visual delights of sometimes huge proportions. Some of the larger pieces in churches were referred to as tapetas as they were like a carpet/rug of tile.

Like any traditional art form, the azulejos designs went through different fashions – from the Dutch influenced blue and white tile to Neoclassical to bright multicoloured to Art Deco. Whilst there are still some traditional artists, these days the majority of the tiles you’ll see on sale are mass produced.

If you also adore this wonderful art-form then take a trip to the Museu do Azulejo. Take bus number 794 from Praça Comércio which leaves from the right hand side of the square if you are facing the river. This will drive you along the river front to Rua Madre De Deus (yes this is where the band got their name from). You need to get off at the 9th stop which is right outside a big white church to your left. The Musuem is set within the Convent of Madre De Deus which is a beautiful and peaceful setting. Inside the museum are a wide variety of tiles from different ages icluding the longest azulejo piece in Portugal showing a panoramic view of Lisbon.

Through the sculptures on the first floor, you reach an impressively adorned room with giant blue and white azulejos and paintings. Make sure you walk on the carpet. I was so busy looking at the tiles I missed the sign and received a reprimand from the museum assistant! There are examples of talha dourada here as well. Talha dourada is a specific technique of working with wood which you can often see in churches. It is highly ornate gold painted carved wood which was created by highly skilled artists.

I loved my couple of hours here. The building and the light were perfect for the tiles on show. Note that flash photography is not allowed.

Do take a trip to the cafe and sit outside in zen peaceful garden with a cup of coffee. I sat out there for quite some time just enjoying the silence and the plip of goldfish and turtles in the pond.

The museum is very reasonably priced at  3 euro’s per ticket.
Museu do Azulejo Official Site

There is a fantastic introduction to Azulejos here

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The moment I see the walls of Lisbon castle I know I’m ‘home’. Dominating the city skyline, the castle can be seen from almost every point within the city. The sand coloured stone gleams gold against the deep blue summer sky. It eminates both strength and serenity.

The castle (Castelo de São Jorge) was named after the English patron Saint George after the treaty that sealed the friendship between England and Portugal in the 14th Century. It seems to have gone through many incarnations to become the building it is today. Dating back to the 6th century the site of the castle has seen battles against the Moors and Castilians, been the seat of the royal palace, housed the national archives and been used as a prison and barracks. It has been fortified and aloud to crumble, built upon and modernised and ruined by the 1755 earthquake. These days the castle seems to be a living legend of the history of Lisbon.

Walking round the gardens there seems to be a wonderful mix of stone and design reflecting the different ages of use and abuse. I should note however that much of what you see is a reconstruction of the more ancient buildings.

If you are on your first visit to Lisbon, take a stroll down to Praça Figueira and gaze up at the castle whilst nursing a coffee at Cafe Suiça. Then, jump on the number 28 tram and journey up the hill. The castle offers you fantastic views of the the city as a whole and you can get a feel for the beautiful city. You can see the red top roofs of the houses and the picture perfect postcard jumble of the Alfama. The Tejo glitters in the sunlight.

The tram driver will always yell “castelo, castelo” when you arrive at the stop for the castle so you need have no fear you will miss where to get off. As soon as you leave the tram, take the tiny winding road up the hill to your left. As you trek up the cobbled streets, you will see a variety of gift shops selling a broad range of tourist paraphernalia. Whilst I would recommend saving your pennies and buying a map from the local bookshop in town, there are some nice little gifts to be found in these shops if you are looking to buy holiday presents for friends (or indeed yourself). I found the shopkeepers to be friendly and helpful. There are also a few cafes and bars and the occassional fado singer.

The castle itself is surrounded by beautiful gardens and is a haven of peace. Take your time to wander across the battlements and gaze out across the Tejo. The information board on the outer wall of the main terrace (Praça D’Armas) shows you an outline of the skyline and marks all the important places and buildings. Canons point out across the city.

On my visit I stayed outside in the gardens as there was so much to see and photograph. However there is also the periscope in the Tower of Ulysses that gives you a 360 degree view of the city. If you wish to rest your aching feet for a while, there is a cafe as well as toilets.

I adored the statues within the grounds and I have previously written about the poem I found there. Like any of the popular tourist attractions, the weekends are likely to be very busy. Weekday mornings are perhaps the best time. Note that it’s closed on Mondays.

It costs 5 euros to gain entry to the castle. Some people feel that the castle is not worth visiting due to the fact that much of it is reconstructed. However, I think it is worth the visit if only to experience the shady walks beneath the pine and cork trees and gaze out over the spectacular views. Whilst history may have been distorted, the castle is a feature of Lisbon present. Even if not all the walls are ancient, the land beneath is. I wonder how many warriers, how many kings, how many prison guards have gazed across this landscape too. I mark their footsteps with my feet and keep their memory in my heart.

http://www.castelosaojorge.egeac.pt/ (in Portuguese)

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I watched a lot of horror films when I was young and adored the extravagent Vincent Price. I devoured Edger Allen Poe and languished in Wuthering Heights. I can hold my hands up and admit I was a ‘goth’ in my teen years and still have a predisposition to wearing black, green and purple and a have love of ‘epic’ music.

It was on my first trip to Lisbon when I spied the gothic ruins of the Carmo Convent (Convento do Carmo) for the first time. I was gazing out across Lisbon from the walls of the Castelo de São Jorge and a Brazilian man began to point out the sites to me. Even from that far away, I could see the magnificent ruins etched a beautiful silhouette into the skyline. I spied it once again, looking up from Praça Rossio, the arches striking against the blue sky yet hiding the mysteries within its walls.

So on my last trip over, I made a point of making a proper visit to Carmo. Situated in Baixa it is most easily reached by a trip up the Santa Justa Elevador which will bring you up to Largo  do Carmo. Largo do Carmo is a pretty little square at the front of the Convent where elderly men gather around stone tables to play cards and people sip coffee in the sunshine. It is amazing to think that this quiet square was one of the focal points of the political revolution in 1974. People carrying carnations persuaded the soldiers upholding the dictatorship to stand aside by placing flowers in the barrels of their guns. Perhaps it is fitting that the grounds around this ancient church saw perhaps one of the most peaceful revolutions in history.

It costs 2.5 euro’s to enter the ruins. There wasn’t soul there as I walked down the steps and out into the roofless nave. The place was absolutely silent and the blazing sun cast stark shadows. I gazed up at the awe-inspiring arches that loomed above me and squinted at the glaring white stone. Whatever faith or lack of faith the vistor has, it is impossible not to experience an all pervading sense of peace. It’s easy to imagine nuns serenely in prayer and whispered incantations.

I’m not a Christian, I’ve always been drawn to older religions and practices but Carmo felt like one of those places that has always been sacred; like the land itself was awake with divinity. I remember having this same experience at Glastonbury Abbey – of all the Pagan places I had visited, the Abbey strangely had the most effect upon me. It is said that our old churches were built on ancient places of power, ley lines and springs and temples to old Gods. It makes sense that humankind is drawn to worship in places that it’s ancestors also sanctified.

So I wandered through the Nave that had become a garden, trailing my fingers across the stone and taking in the marvels of marble and sculpture. Gargoyles stared out from the places in the walls both guarding me and watching me. There were giant columns of stone, huge archways, figureheads and statues.

After a time I entered the main museum at the far end of the nave. Three giant lanterns hung beneath a vast domed ceiling and all around were tombs. I wondered if they were still occupied. Walking into the next room there was no such ambiguity. Shrunken heads and mummies made up part of the collletion. The heads seemed impossibly small yet the hair was undeniably human.

On into the next room and there was a maquet of how the church would have looked before the great earthquake that brought down it’s roof. Looking up in any all the rooms I spied beautiful azulejos panels adorning the walls. Finally I reached the small museum shop which had the atmosphere of a library. I crept across the floor to the window to gaze out across the wonderful view of Lisbon.

It’s funny, I could have sworn I’d already written this entry. As I wrote the first few lines I had a curious sense of deja-vu. I even checked my archives just to make sure before I posted this and even now I am not entirely convinved I haven’t already written this piece!

Perhaps a little part of the convent has remained with me. The Carmo ruins are a stark reminder of the power of nature and the power of prayer as well as a curious place where time has stood still. One can step in and out of the past and the future in a heartbeat and find that when it comes to peace, it is the same in any era.

Opening Times
Apr-Sept Mon.-Sat. 10-6
Oct-Mar Mon.-Sat. 10-5.

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Whilst modern methods often unravel true history, the magnetic attraction of mythology is rarely undone. We find this in the story of the birth of Lisbon. Despite the almost undisputable fact that it was the Phoenetians who were the first people of Lisbon, the legend of Ulysses refuses to die.

Ulysses was the Latin name for Odysseus. Odysseus was the great hero of Homers Odyssey. Born of the King of Ithaca, Odysseus was once a suitor to the most beautiful woman in the world (Helen of Troy). Though he was not chosen by her to be her husband, he made a show of loyalty to her and made all her suitors promise to protect her. However when she was captured by Troy, Odysseus did not want to go to battle and pretended instead that he was mad! Soon however, he made good on his original promise and became the man behind the idea of the Trojan Horse. He was a great warrior of the mind, skilled in strategy – cool, calm and collected. His loyalties were governed by intellect and therefore they could change according to the politics of the situation. For this reason Odysseus was also known for his lies but the lies stemmed from a believe that he was serving a greater good and that was always to protect his homeland.

He married the lovely Penelope who stayed faithful to him even during the 10 long years it took for him to return from Troy. It was during this tempestuous journey that Odysseus founded Lisbon. He had battled sea monsters, giants and all manner of strange things but one day a bolt of lightning appeared and exploded into flame in an unknown land. It is said that when Odysseus reached the source he was instructed to build a city on the point of impact and this was the beginnings of Lisbon. He followed what was likely to be the instruction of Zeus (for he was the great God of Thunder and Lightning) and named his city Ulisaypo or Olissopo.

Olissopo became Alisubbo (meaning ‘friendly bay) to the Phoenicians. Later this changed with the coming of the Moors to Al Aschbuna. This then merged to become Lissabona which is the forerunner to what we know today as Lisboa.

Today Odysseus is still remembered within Lisbon as he has a tower named after his Latin counterpart in the Castelo de São Jorge. It is perhaps very fitting that the Tower of Ulysses  houses the Cámara Escura (Camera Obscura). Invented by Leonardo Da Vinci this optical ssytem projects a 360 degree view of the city. It is as though Ulysses is everywhere the eye can see. He was brave, loyal, cunning, wise and tenacious – qualities that are found in abundance when we look to the history of Lisbon. Remember, as you look out from the battlements of the Castelo, it rose from the ruins of the great earthquake to be the beautiful place we know today.

Azulejo Photo by CRIVA on Flickr

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