Finally Google Maps have added ’street view’ to Lisbon so it is now possible to wander Lisbon’s glorious streets in cyber space.  Whilst it isn’t shown on the small map below, if you go directly to Google Maps and type in Lisbon you’ll see a little orange man in the top left hand corner of the map. Drag him anywhere on the map and suddenly you have the view of the street as if you were walking it.

I’ve loved Google Street View from the start and have been eagerly anticipating Lisbon’s addition. Whilst it certainly can’t beat a real visit, it’s a terrific way of aquainting yourself with your way round before your trip and getting a feel for the place. Once you have been in real life, it’s also a great way to jog memories of your trip.

Check it out.

View Larger Map

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Chiado Museum is based in Chiado on Rua Serpa Pinto. To get there, aim for Cafe Brasileira on Rua Garrett and take the road on your left just before the cafes and the metro stop. Walk  about half way down the road and you’ll see a long red flag hanging down on the left hand side of the street announcing you’ve arrived. Just before you reach the entrace of the Museum, make sure you check out the doorway in the wall as these leads into the Museum Cafe which is definately worth a visit (here’s a clue – there are circular windows in the wall). It’s one of those places that not so many people know about but the garden is lovely and cool and it’s the perfect place to while away an hour before or after your museum visit. Food and drinks are reasonably priced and the staff are friendly too.

The Museum initially opened on the 26th May 1911 and was housed in an ancient Convent of Saint Francis. Closed just before the terrible Chiado fire in 1988 the museum went through a complete redesign and reopened it’s doors in 1994. The building inside is a beautiful space full of curved wooden accented ceilings and wood and glass walkways. The architecture gives a curious feeling of the building being very old and very new all at the same time.

Museu do Chiado specialisies in art from the mid 19th Century to now. A few pieces come from outside Portugal but the vast majority are Portuguese artists. There are a range of styles and disciplines with work ranging from Romanticism through to Avant Garde, Surrealism to Expressionism – and probably a good deal more art ‘ism’s’ that I don’t know the name of

Having little true knowledge of art I am merely an observer and sometimes I think it is important just to experience a piece and see how it touches the senses rather than to compare or contrast or even describe. Sometimes, I just like to let art be…well…art.

I loved the piece by Alberto Carneiro ‘Raiz, Caule, Folhas, Flores e Frutas’ (Root, Stem, Leaves, Flowers and Fruits) and an odd sculpture ‘Duas Cabeças’ (two heads) by Jorge Martins. There was a space that paid homage to symbolism and another paying homage to the blues (I’m assuming this was a temporary exhibition). The artwork is very varied and interesting and therefore there’s something for everyone. I have to say however my favourite piece was Helena Almeida’s “Pintura Habitada” (Inhabited Painting). There was something quite mesmorizing about her work – the vividness of the blue, the artist disappearing into the art…absolutely beautiful. This collection of images has stayed in my mind long after I came home.

Pintura Habitada

The Museum is open Tuesday to Sundays 10am – 6pm and costs €4 to enter except on Sunday mornings when it is free until 2pm.

Rua Serpa Pinto, 4-6, Chiado, Lisboa
www.museudochiado-ipmuseus.pt

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Príncipe Real is a leafy neighbourhood not far from Bairro Alto. Here you’ll find grand houses with beautiful tilework, quaint antique shops, bookstores, tiny coffee houses and gay friendly bars. There’s a certain homely bohemian feel and it immediately makes me think that this is an area I could live in.

From Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, follow the road round to the right and up the short hill. The climb will take into the Príncipe Real district and you’ll see trees ahead of you. Head towards the green and you’ll find a tranquil park which is over-awed by a huge ancient ceder tree whose branches spread out to almost impossible dimensions. The tree is so old that it is now held up by ornate iron trellis. I wandered beneath it, feeling the sheer weight of it upon me and wondered how many lovers this tree has witnessed. It’s perhaps what used to be called a Trysting Tree. The presence of the tree is both deeply comforting and ominous – almost as if it’s spirit fiercly protects this little sanctuary in Lisbon.

It was around 10am when I arrived in the park so there were no lovers to be seen but the park was a natural focal point. People were walking their dogs, elderly folk sat reading the morning paper and prepared for a game of cards, people cut through on their way to work and a few earlybird tourists stopped to read their maps. There are permanent picnic tables and plenty of shady seats as well as a lovely little cafe to buy your morning bica (espresso).

Wandering through the park, I came across an entrance leading underground to the Museu da Água (Museum of Water). Unfortunately I didn’t have time to go in but I have discovered from the main website that this is one part of the Water Museum which is spread over several sites. This site (the Patriarchal Reservoir) was once one of the main reservoirs in Lisbon holding tons of water to keep downtown alive. Shut down in the 1940’s the site has become an place of historic and architectural interest.

Príncipe Real is a neighbourhood with a lot to offer. I’m told that it’s well worth stopping to buy bread here too from a shop called Doce Real.

Yes, I could definately live in Principe Real.

http://museudaagua.epal.pt/museudaagua/

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The ferry was ancient and rusted. Momentarily I wondered whether I should dare my weight upon it. It creaked at the waterside, rocking knowingly to the rhythm of the river.

The journey to to Cacilhas was €2.55 for a round trip (ida e volta) which is a serious bargain compared to some of the boat trips being hawked at the port. Whilst some may like the glitz of the more expensive cruises around the bay, I wanted to experience the crossing as a Lisboeta.

I caught the ferry at Cais de Sodré. To get there turn right at the end of Praço do Comércio (facing the river) onto Av. da Ribeira das Naus. Follow the road up until you reach Praça do Duque da Terceira; it’s just just a few minutes walk. Cais de Sodré is there on your left. Once you arrive, walk right through past the train terminal to the end where you can buy your ticket to Cacilhas. There’s a ferry every 10 minutes or so and the journey itself lasts 10 – 15 minutes on the water.

Ferries are usually quite busy as not only do you have tourists making their way across to the Christi Rei statue, you also have local people making their way to and from work. This is one of the main reasons I enjoy the ferry more than the cruises as it’s another way of taking part in local life.

photo credit: campagnoli

I found space to sit however; nestled against the window surrounded by two elderly Portuguese ladies, a mother and child and a German couple. As the ferry made ready to leave I found myself wondering whether this had been a good idea seeing as I have the worst sea-sickness ever. I have been known to go green on a canal boat! The engines revved and the water rolled beneath us and as the banks of Lisbon’s north shore receeded I managed to convince my stomach that there was no cause for alarm. Delighted, I found myself enjoying the trip.

Whilst the windows are a little grimy, the further the ferry goes, the better the view of Lisbon’s shores. As you reach the middle of the river, your eye can stretch from Belém Tower to Alfama and the Sé. You also get a fabulous view of the Ponte 25th de Abril too. Whilst the famous bridge is another way of crossing the river, there is something wonderfully romantic about a boat – the slight smell of corrosion of  water upon metal, the oil of the engines, the rhythm of the waves…

I had no plans when I reached the other side of the river. I just wanted to take in the view and wander. Initially as we disembarked, a mass of woman selling fruit, vegetables and imitation watches beseeched us to buy. I side-tracked the throng and turned left to walk along the waterside. Hardly a few feet later, I found a seat beside the river where I could simply sit and gaze at Lisbon from a different vantage point. After pausing there for a while, I changed my mind about walking further into Cacilhas favouring a long walk beside the water instead.

Walking back on myself, I made my way along the river side, past jetties with old fishing boats moored and run-down warehouses. I stood for some time simply drinking in the panorama, tasting the slight salt on my lips and the heat of the sun reflecting of the water. I had one of my moments that I sometimes have in Lisbon, an overwhelming feeling that I wanted to cry with the love I felt for the beautiful city that lay on the opposite shore.

Many come to Cacilhas to visit the giant Christi Rei monument that echoes the one found on the mountain overlooking Rio de Janerio in Brazil. Perhaps it is the sense of pilgrimage that hangs over this place that moves me too. If Christi Rei is the point of your trip by the way, there is a bus outside the ferry port at Cacilhas that will take you all the way to the monument.
 
Time was short however as I had made my decision to ride the ferry a couple of hours before meeting someone for coffee. Rather than explore further, I caught the ferry back, letting it rock me back into the arms of Lisbon. The vast monument and Cacilhas are mysteries for me to explore another day…

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Running from the grand entrance to Lisbon on Praça do Comércio to central Praça Rossio, Rua Augusta is the bustling main street of Lisbon. Pedestrianised, the street captures every aspect of Lisbon life from market stalls and street art to high end and high street shops. The road was immortalised in Gulliver’s travels. I watched this not too long ago and had no idea that Lisbon was featured. Much to my friend’s annoyance I could not stop the squeal of excitement I let out when I noticed Gulliver being wheeled through the magnificent archway (Arco do Rua Augusta). 

Assuming you have not been captured by the people of Lilliput, the first thing you will see upon entering through the giant archway from Praça Comércio is a variety of market stalls. Most of these sell bags, scarves and some jewellery. Cross the road ahead and you then come to a rash of stalls either side of the street selling paintings of Lisbon and Portugal. Be warned that some of the stall holders are very pushy. I just happened to glance at one of the pictures I liked and the stallholder was telling me his life story in seconds and then offering me a deal on two for the price of one in under a minute! I was amused as I had already decided I wanted to purchase a picture the day before and sales patter has absolutely no effect on me whatsoever.  Just so you know, this is the part of the street where the banks are so head here if you need an ATM (although there are plenty scattered around the city anyway).

Cross the next street and this brings you to the cafes that have seats situated in the centre of Rua Augusta. Tables and chairs abound here for the weary traveller who’s just landed in Lisbon. Food at these tables tends to be cheap and cheerful. On the right hand side of the street is a little souvenir shop selling a wide variety of nik naks.

Next to this is ‘A Chega’ which sells all things woollen. The quality looks good and not too expensive.

Note that the next street that crosses Rua Augusta is the one with the tram lines. Turn left and walk up the hill to the tramstop if you want to catch the 28 to the Castle here.

Crossing over the tram lines and continuing up Rua Augusta you’ll see a large branch of Zara on your left. A little further along is the rather lovely “Casa Pereira da Conceição” This shop has been here since 1933. It’s one of my favourite shops in Lisbon but then I am a coffee lover and of course in Lisbon you will always find good coffee! In truth I must nod to tea as well as this traditional shop sells fine teas and coffees from all over the world. There is also gorgeous porcelain china, vintage ports, ginginha and home-made chocolates Mmmmmm  The shop is still run by the same family and has another smaller outlet in Chiado. If you want to buy your loved ones a foodie gift (or yourself!) this is a nice place to look.

Just across the next road that bi-sects Rua Augusta on the corner to your right is São Nicolau Cafeteria. Stop here for traditional Portuguese pastries such as pasteis de nata, queijinhos d’ovo, tarte de amêndoa, fatias, douradas and more.

Across the way is “Monteiros e Jorge LDA”, a high class leather and suede shop. Next up on the left is ‘Madeira House’ with typical Portuguese china (might be the place to buy your Portuguese cockerel). Beside this is the familiar H&M store and opposite are an array of other high street clothes shops.

Look left as you cross the next stree (Rua da Vitória) and you’ll see Chiado-Baixa metro.

The heart of the street now alternates between jewellers, fashion shops and tiny tourist kiosks packed with take home goodies. Poised gracefully between these is a rather swish looking men’s clothes shop at 195- 197 Rua Augusta called Pitta. Whilst there’s little for me to buy inside, I love this shop simply for it’s fabulous carved wooden frontage. Gleaming in the sunlight this shop pitches you back to an older era when every shop was individual and owners took great pride in every aspect of their business. Beside the gorgeous wooden-fronted shop is a tiny stairway that leads to a handicraft shop.

Cross the next street and you’ll come to Gazela – a little cafe in the centre of the road. It may serve as a much needed break if you are into shoe shopping because on this part of the street you’ll be spoilt for choice. I am still always surprised at just how many shoe shops their are in Lisbon and more so because they often seem to be open later than the other shops. Beside’s being born female I’m afraid I never sucumbed to the lure of shoes but then I’m a bit of a hippy so I’d probably go bare-foot if I could.

As you cross the next street you’ll see the Elevador Santa Justa – do go for a ride.

The next point of interest is Casa Brasileira and absolutely terrific pastry shop. You can tell it’s good because the Portuguese are going in to eat. Opposite is Casa Macário which sells a huge range of Portuguese wines, sweets, honey’s and jams.

From the glorious calçadas to the traditional shops and cafes; from human statues and hustling buskers to the occassional sly hiss of “hashish” from a passing dealer. From well dressed Portuguese businessman to tired tourists, Rua Augusta is the lively centre of Lisbon. With the Tejo glittering at one end through the triumphant arch the light here falls on every colourful aspect of Portuguese life. It’s easy to rush down this street on the way to somewhere else but it deserves to be wandered and savoured and very definately tasted. Now, where next for a pasteis…

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Whenever I visit Lisbon evenings tend to find me at Miradouro das Portas do Sol, quietly drinking a beer or a coffee and writing up my experiences of the day whilst taking in the glorious view. It’s very easy to reach, take the number 28 tram. It’s the stop after the castle.

‘Portas das Sol’ literally means ‘doorways of the sun’ and refers to sunset. It is a wonderful place to come in the early evening and watch how the setting sun changes the colours of the water and the rooftops. I think each time I have had the same feeling of ‘now I am really here’ once I take my place beside the Tejo and feel the warm river winds caress my skin.

The light here is extraordinary. The terrace is dotted with palm trees and is spacious and wide. Sitting on the seats of the cafe that probably boasts the best view in Lisbon you gaze across Alfama to the boats on the water and beyond. From here you can see the magnificent structure of São Vicente de Fora Church. I love watching people’s faces as they reach the summit of the hill from the castle and realise what they have stumbled upon. Despite the many tourists that arrive here, few seem to spend time really taking in the atmosphere: a quick snap and they are gone as they spy the steps leading deep into Alfama.

There is a statue of St. Vincent who guards over the terrace and Lisbon. He is the Patron Saint of Lisbon and in his hands he holds a boat with two ravens. Perhaps it’s why I like this place and feel protected here; I’ve always had thing about ravens. They are healing birds and powerful medicine.

Just beside the cafe is a long veranda that juts out to offer a perfect place to stand and catch your breath. As usual on my last visit, the first evening found me here. I felt curiously emotional. A lone busker played intricate guitar as I stood by the rails looking out over the water. I was blessed with a few minutes where it was just me, him and the river and I let the feeling of saudade roll over me. It is moments like these, in the most romantic of places, when it is hard to stand alone. Without a lover’s hand to grasp, I sent my heart out over the water and hoped for just a moment he knew I was thinking of him.

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I just read a fascinating article on a new project which is running in Lisbon and possibly set to explode around the glode. Cabrecega is a creative agency in Lisbon who develops innovative experiences for a variety of clients. The latest of these is a guided walk through Alfama lead by a blind guide. Walkers are securely blindfolded then lead through the ancient streets. The guide not only talks them through the history of the area but also gives them a sensory experience of it. The walker is given an experience of Lisbon and of blindness simultaneously. 

I think this is an amazing project. As a sighted person I cannot imagine what it is like to live in a world without sight. Yet one of the aims of this walk is to show us that in the absence of sight, the world can be fully experienced in a new way. My memories of Lisbon include sound, scent, touch and taste as well as vision – the smell of sardines, the sound of fado and the trams, running my fingers along the azulejos, the taste of pasteis (Mmmmm…).  To walk through Alfama blindfold would be an extraordinary experience.

The project lists one of their goals as

“…to bring awareness to the universe of the visually impaired, not as a limitation but instead in a positive and stimulating note in which the blind himself invite us to step into his own world of codes and references.”

The first walks in July were fully booked but they are opening their doors again in September. They cost 20 euros and this is given in full to ACAPO – an association for the visually impaired.

For further details about this amazing, inspiring project, contact the organisers through their website.

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The Gulbenkian Museum (Museu Calouste Gulbenkian) is situated just north east of Parque Eduardo VII. The easiest way to get their is to jump on the metro blue line at Baixa-Chiado up to São Sebastiao. Once you exit, walk up the main road (Avenida AntOnio Augusta de Aguiar). The Gulbenkian gardens run on your right hand side but you need to walk down almost to the first corner to find an entry point.

The Gulbenkian comprises a modern art gallery and a seperate main building which is the museum. They are set within beautiful landscaped grounds which I also recommend exploring.

My first point of call was the Modern Art gallery. I’m the kind of person who likes to visit museums and galleries but at the same time I don’t tend to hover around exhibitions I don’t feel drawn to. I’ll just keep on walking until I find something that really captures my attention. At times, as my friends will no doubt attest to, it’s meant I’ve walked right in and right out again!

Luckily at the time, the exhibitions in the art gallery were fascinating and I was entraced by one particular installation by an Romanian artist Mircea Cantor. The installation is called Deeaparture (that is the spelling) and can be viewed on You Tube here. There were also some huge arresting photo’s by Pieter Hugo on his exploration of the The Hyena Men of Abuja. I found them both beautiful and disturbing and the images have stayed with me long after my visit.

After viewing the exhibits in the art gallery, I made my way across to the main Gulbenkian building. Normally it would cost 7 Euro’s for entry into both but as I went on a Sunday both were free. Despite there being lots of people, the museum was extraordinarily quiet. The building itself is modern and spacious and contains a wealth of treasured items to be seen. The collection was created by one of the richest men of the 20th Century named Calouste Gulbenkian who donated his entire collection to Portugal when he died. Gulbenkian seemed to have an eye for many different era’s and cultures so the collection comprises items from Egypt, the Far East, Mesopotamia, Greece, Rome and more. Paintings range from pre-Raphaelite to impressionist and includes artists such as Turner, Monet, Burne-Jones, Rembrandt and Rubens. I think my favourite pieces were those in the Egyptian and Islamic collections and the Diana statue by Jean-Antoine Houdon which apparently caused a stir when he completed it due to her being nude. I guess they were more easily shocked way back when

Back outside in the sunshine, I took a long walk through the delightful gardens that surround the museum and spent some time quietly sitting in the amphitheatre there. Throughout the park are sculptures including work by Henry Moore. There’s a small man-made lake complete with ducks and shady copses where you can watch the dapple of the sun play. Birds, bees and butterflies are all around. It’s a lovely place to spend an hour and recharge your batteries.

For more information about the musem and it’s collection visit the official website.

Price: 7 euro’s for a combined museum and gallery ticket. Sundays are free.

Address
Av. de Berna 45A
1067-001 Lisboa Codex

Opening Hours
Tuesday to Sunday: 10 a.m. to 5.45 p.m.
Closed on Mondays, and on January 1, Easter Sunday, May 1, December 25

Links to artists mentioned in this post:

Pieter Hugo – Official Website
An article by The Guardian on Pieter Hugo

Deeparture by Mircea Cantor

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Before the great earthquake of 1755, Commercial Square was the seat of power for the Portuguese royalty for around 200 years. In those times it was named Terreiro do Paço (The Palace’s Square) and was the home of the Portuguese Royal family of King Manuel 1st. After the earthquake destroyed the palace, the Marquis de Pombal saw to the uniform recreation of Lisbon and Terreiro do Paço became Praça do Comércio – Commerical Square. Many of the roads in Baixa (downtown Lisbon) were given names such as Rua dos Sapateiros (Cobbler Street) to create an orderly layout of both streets and people. Certain professions were given their own roads. Commercial Square did exactly what it said on the tin. It became the hub of commerce in Lisbon, comprising governmental buildings dealing with import and export and more.

Commercial Square has been called the ‘reception room of Lisbon’. Built on the edge of the Tagus river, the square became the warm sunlit welcome to visitors. With the port lying at one end and grand buildings surrounding it, Praça Comércio provided a regal and proud gateway into Lisbon.

As you cross from Rua Augusta into Commercial Square you walk under the Arco do Triunfo or Triumph Arch. This collosal piece of architecture was only completed in 1875 and designed by Veríssimo da Costa. Take a moment to look up and you will see representations of Portugal’s glorious history carved upon it. The Marquis has a place here, as does the famous pioneer of the seas; Vasco de Gama. On either side of the Arch are figures representing the two main rivers of Portugal, namely the Douro and the Tagus and crowning the Archway is a statue to Glory, Ingenuity and Valour, three attributes of the spirit of Lisbon. The Archway above all captures the strength of Lisbon in it how it rose from the rubble of the earthquake to be rebuilt.

photo credit: TravelHo

Within the Arch there is also a clock. Once upon a time the King of Portugal commisioned a beautiful clock tower that was part of the palace. When it was destroyed in the earthquake, it was to be another century before the hands of time once again were visible on the square. A hundred years ago the clock was replaced but fell into disuse through neglect. Last year work began on it once more to restore time to Lisbon. When I visited, a huge banner covered the restoration work.

At the centre of the square you cannot fail to miss the gigantic bronze statue of Dom José upon his horse. The horse tramples snakes beneath its feet. Whilst on my Lisbon Walk, the tour guide mentioned that the snakes were meant to represent the Jews. On either side of the base of the statue are two further figures: Triumph leading a horse and Fame leading an elephant – presumably a visual representation of Portugal’s success in the spice trade with India.

photo credit: elephantsarepink

Praça do Comércio is one of my favourite places to just sit and watch the world go by. The light here is exquisite and I love the feeling of being ‘at the centre’. Tourist buses and trams meet and leave from here, walkers congregate here and people populate the cafe’s that are dotted around the square. The most famous of these is Café Martihno da Arcada on the top left hand corner (as you come through the Arch).

History is all around you in this place. Here was once where Royalty reigned, where destruction followed where new dreams began. Here is where the last King of Portugal was assasinated. Here is where every year a giant Christmas tree stands and where many gather to welcome in the New Year.

Whilst you are visiting Lisbon, you are very likely to pass through Commercial Square at some point or other, if only because so many trams and buses stop here. I would recommend taking a half hour out of your day just to wander then sit and wonder at one the the most beautiful squares in Europe.

For further details on the renovation of the clock in the arch see here

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